the splendours of angkor
24-26 December 2006
I am finally in Cambodia. Every traveller's
utopia. Peace has come to this beautiful yet scarred
land after three decades of war and suffering, and a journey to this small
kingdom is truly one of Asia's most genuine adventures.
Present day Cambodia is the successor state
to the mighty Khmer empire which during the Angkor Period (9th to 15th
Century AD) ruled much of what is now Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. No matter how much you read about Angkor or
see pictures of its monuments, the actuality of the place still takes you
by surprise. The scale alone of the site is impressive, the detailed stone
carvings on its temples only further adding to its incredible beauty.
I must have taken over 400 pictures in the
three days that I have spent here. And every evening I would get back with my
hair wilder, my smile wider and my heart warmer. I love Angkor. The dusty
tropical jungles wrapping around the stone temples whilst gigantic carved cupolas peep over
the foliage. The sense of adventure discovering one forgotten massif stone
temple after another.
In 802 AD, Cambodia was united by the
Khmer king Jayavarman II who introduced the cult of the god king. The
dynasty and the cult lasted for over 600 years till 1432 AD. Angkor
literally means Capital City or Holy City and refers to the capital city
of the Khmer empire, as well as the empire itself.
With the exception of Angkor Wat, which was
restored for use as a Buddhist shrine in the 16th Century by the Khmer
royalty, the rest of the monuments of Angkor were left to the jungle for
many centuries. Angkor was eventually discovered in 1860, enmeshed in
forest, by the French explorer Henri Mouhot.
The main attractions of Angkor are the
Angkor Wat, the largest religious structure in the world, the walled city
of Angkor Thom with the inscrutable faces of
the Bayon temple at its center and the Terrace of Elephants, the symbolic Ta Prohm battling against the
forces of nature, Preah Khan with its incredible cruciform corridors, and
the Banteay Srei renowned for its intricate filigree carvings.
Angkor Wat, the greatest in the collection
of royal temples (about 100 in all) that stand in and around Angkor, is
a massive three-tiered pyramid crowned by five lotus-like towers rising to
a height of 65 meters and is surrounded by a moat and an exterior wall
measuring 1,300 meters by 1,500 meters. It was built by Suryavarman II
in the early 11th Century as both a temple complex dedicated to Vishnu,
one of the main gods of the Hindu pantheon, and a mausoleum for himself. The Wat's
stonework is a profusion of symbols and like other funerary temples
replicates the Hindu concept of the universe. The statues are mainly of
either Hindu gods or - after the coming of Buddhism in the second half of
the 11th Century - of Buddha. The Wat is famous for its beguiling apsaras
or heavenly nymphs. There are more than 3,000 carved into the walls of the
temple, each of them unique with more than 30 different hairstyles.
Around three kilometers away from Angkor Wat
is another of Angkor's most remarkable monuments, a temple pyramid known as the Bayon built by Jayavarman VII
in the 12th Century. The Bayon was doubly central, within its
own site, as well as being in the exact center of the royal city.
Galleries, terraces and passageways intermix creating a maze intricately
carved with 11,000 statues and capped by 54 towers, from each of which
four giant human faces stare out believed to be representing Jayavarman
VII
himself. Jayavarman VII also built Angkor Thom, the walled and moated
royal city covering an area of three square kilometers, and which was the
last capital of the empire.
The great temple of Ta Prohm has been left undisturbed and is in the same state as the whole complex had
been initially found in the 19th Century. Its immense mass of towers and courtyards,
once maintained by 80,000 people, is still locked together by roots and
branches of the rain forest. Nothing could better illustrate the creative
energy that produced these buildings, or the destructive power of nature
that could so quickly conceal it from future
generations.


 

Angkor Wat, the largest religious structure in the
world is visually, architecturally and artistically breathtaking.

I found Faith even in
His feet.
 
Carvings, both minute and colossal, decorate the
Buddhist temple of Bayon built by Jayavarman VII in the walled city of
Angkor Thom.
 
The temple of Ta Prohm has been left in the state in
which it was discovered by the French explorer Henri Mouhot in 1860.


Banteay Srei also
known as the 'citadel of women' is relatively small in size and made of
pink sandstone in ornate design, giving it a fairyland ambience.
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