sacred chants and harmony
19-22 December 2006

Wherever there is faith, there is contentment...
Luang Prabang resonates with sacred chants
and harmony. The various layers of life in this charming, medieval,
religious town blend seamlessly into each other to create a complete
whole. From the saffron robed monks going about their daily tasks to the
local Lao whose lives revolve around the wats; from the night market which
sells indigenous handicrafts to the thronging tourists, to the tourists themselves, mature
and sensitive to the spirit of Luang Prabang. Nothing jars here. Nothing irks.
Every aspect of this palm fringed, sleepy, former royal capital by the Mekong is in peace
with itself.
There are probably just 10,000 inhabitants
in the city proper of Luang Prabang. Situated at the junction of the
Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, the city is home to a
wonderful array of gilded temples and French colonial buildings. It
was founded on Mount Phousi, a small rocky hill with leafy slopes and has
been a mountain kingdom for over 1,000 years.
In the 18th Century there were around 65
wats. Many have been destroyed over the years but more than 30 still remain
intact. The most beautiful of them all are the royal Wat Xieng Thong, Wat
Mai, Wat Visoun and Wat Aham. The splendour and historical significance of
the town led UNESCO to designate Luang Prabang a World Heritage Site at
the end of 1995, and declare it the best preserved traditional city in
South East Asia.
The name of the city refers to the Holy Pra
Bang, Laos's most sacred image of the Buddha which was given to Fa Ngum,
the warrior king and founder of the city, by his father-in-law the king of
Cambodia. Fa Ngum is credited with the founding of the Lane Xang Hom Khao,
the Kingdom of a Million Elephants White Parasol, in 1353 and establishing
the Lao royal lineage which was to last 600 years.
The Royal Palace, also known as the National
Museum, was built in 1924 by the French for the Lao king. The Museum now
contains a collection of 15th-17th Century Buddha statues and artifacts
from the many wats in Luang Prabang. The most important piece is the Pra
Bang reputed to have come originally from Ceylon, and said to date between
the 1st and 9th Centuries. The Buddha is in the Abhayamudra or
dispelling fears attitude, and is 90 percent solid gold, stands 83 cm
tall, and weighs 53 kg.
The wats themselves are like gilded birds,
glittering with carved gold foiled doorways, painted walls, vivid jewel
like
mosaics, and the eternal ever present family of Buddhas gracing the
inner halls. Wat Xieng Thong is the finest example of a Lao
monastery with graceful, low sweeping eaves, beautiful stone mosaics and
intricate carvings. It dates back to 1559 and was an important element in Luang Prabang's designation as a World Heritage Site. Next to the Royal
Palace is the Wat Mai. The temple forms part of a medieval sacred ritual
in which during the Lao New Year, the Pra Bang is taken from the Royal
Palace and installed at the Wat Mai for its annual ritual cleaning, before
being retuned to the palace on the 3rd day.
You can't rush through Luang Prabang. It is a
town which envelops you in its own pace, drawing you in to feel and enjoy
its treasures languidly and tenderly. My days were spent giving alms to
the monks at day break, wandering through the 30 odd wats, praying to the
eclectic collection of Buddhas, joining in the chantings at dusk. A cup of
coffee at Jomo's, a stop at one of the many bookshops, a stroll through a
palm fringed by-lane to reach the waters of the Mekong hugging the
embankment... you simply can't rush through Luang Prabang. Because here
every moment demands to be lived and felt, in god's tranquil grace. Luang Prabang reaffirms the
absolute simplicity of life. It reaffirms
the harmony prevalent in faith.

Scores of saffron robed
monks silently amble out of their monasteries at dawn, bearing alms boxes
in which to collect offerings from the town's residents.

 
The Pak Ou caves are set in
a limestone cliff facing the Mekong river. The two caves are studded with
over 4,000 wood and gold Buddha figurines.

The Wat at the Royal Palace.
The Royal Palace, also known as the National Museum, houses the Pra Bang
or Golden Buddha.
 
Wat Mai, a royal temple
inaugurated in 1788, was the home of the Buddhist leader in Laos until he
moved to Vientiane.

 

Wat Xieng Thong, Luang
Prabang's most beautiful wat, was a key
element in the town's successful submission to UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
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