the 'panorama'
journey
4 October 2010

At Blyde River Canyon.
Guess you’ve heard the old adage – the
journey is as important as the destination. My destination is Kruger. The
journey is appropriately the Panorama Route:)
I’ve always wanted to do the Panorama Route.
One of those ‘have to do’ things in life. Why, you might well ask? It is
scenic, on a majestic scale, cutting through the northern Drakensberg
Mountains and Mpumalanga escarpment, the latter ending abruptly to give
way to the plains of the lowveld.
Nature in South Africa is rather grand. Everything a little larger than life, a little more verdant, a
little more unique and unduplicated by god. The Panorama Route’s first
highlight is the Blyde River Canyon with the Three Rondavels
standing sentry on the side, the latter evocative of the huts of the
country’s indigenous people.
The largest ‘green’ canyon in the world for
its lush subtropical vegetation, and the third largest canyon in terms of
size, Blyde River Canyon is 26 kilometres in length and 800 metres deep on
average. Just round the corner is Bourke’s Luck Potholes, one of nature’s
little masterpieces. Named after a gold digger, Tom Bourke, the potholes
on the river bed at the confluence of the Treur and Blyde rivers are the
result of swirling whirlpools over millennia.
The canyon, together with the Potholes, form
part of the 25,000 ha Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve which contains
more than 1,000 species of flora, many endemic and/or endangered. At the
southern edge of the reserve is God’s Window where the Drakensberg
escarpment – a 250 kilometre long wall of sheer cliffs – plummets 700
metres deep into the lowveld and the Kruger National Park beyond. We drove
on still higher, to Wonder View, for a bird’s eye view of the lowveld. The kind
of views dreams are made of, and which unfortunately cameras are no good
at capturing:( You can only hungrily absorb it in and make it part of your
being.

The journey... Blyde River
Canyon, the largest 'green' canyon in the world.

The Three Rondavels are
reminiscent of the indigenous people's huts.
 

Nature's art (from
top clockwise): Bourke's Luck Potholes, Wonder View, A walking trail at
Wonder View's viewpoint...


... and God's Window
and Lisbon Waterfalls.
The escarpment is also rich in streams and
plunging waterfalls – a short detour took me to the Lisbon Falls which are
the highest falls in the area with its three streams dropping 92 metres
into a pearly pool in the gorge below.
This brings me to the end of the scenic
highlights of my day. But there was more, and the other part was the
cultural, historical element.
The area around Pilgrim’s Rest, also on the
route, was once the site of a massive gold rush with 1,500 diggers working
on 4,000 claims following Alec "Wheelbarrow" Patterson’s findings of gold
deposits in Pilgrim's Creek. Officially declared a gold field in 1873,
alluvial gold then lined the beds and banks of the creek whilst gold
nuggets lay lodged under boulders. Mining in the village carried on till
as late as 1971. In 1986, the whole village was declared a National
Monument in remembrance of the old Transvaal gold rush in South Africa,
with the Victorian houses and buildings kept intact.
Pilgrim’s Rest is much like stepping back in
time. One expects to see a gold digger to lazily saunter through the
street with his findings for the day and the sound of hoofs as carriages
drive past the Royal Hotel. It was also approaching dusk and time for me
to move on. The road leading out from Pilgrim’s Rest is unlit with sharp
bends hugging the mountain sides…
Old adages are rarely wrong. Some journeys
are as relevant as the destinations they lead to.

The historical part
of the journey is centred around 19th Century Pilgrim's Rest where time
stands cocooned and still.
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